The pressure drops to a whisper, the shower turns icy, and the laundry sits half-rinsed. That’s the winter failure call I get every year—freeze damage in the line, cracked fittings, seized motors. Subzero cold doesn’t care about your Saturday plans. If your well system isn’t winterized correctly, water expands into ice, and the damage spirals from a $20 fitting to a $2,000 emergency.
Meet a family I advised last December: Mateo and Priya Bhullar in far northern Wisconsin. Mateo (39) runs a small woodworking shop; Priya (37) is a home-health nurse. Their two kids, Aaron (10) and Kavya (7), and a flock of laying hens rely on a 240-foot private well. After a Hallmark Industries 3/4 HP submersible failed early—bearing noise for weeks, then a dead short—they switched to a PSAM-supplied Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP, 10 GPM, 230V unit. It ran beautifully until their first real cold snap. A neglected yard hydrant and an uninsulated drop section froze, the check valve fractured, and the system lost pressure entirely. Emergency replacement right before Christmas wasn’t in the budget.
This guide is for homeowners like the Bhullars, rural contractors, and anyone who depends on a private well through winter. We’ll walk through ten essential steps: protecting exposed lines, insulating the wellhead and pitless connection, calibrating the pressure tank and switch for cold loads, draining seasonal branches, safeguarding power and control systems, managing sump and sewage pumps, choosing cold-ready materials, verifying the pump curve against winter demand, winterizing jet pumps if you have them, and setting up a rapid-thaw and recovery plan. Done right, your PSAM Myers pump stays efficient, protected, and ready for spring—without surprise failures or frozen mornings.
Before we dig in, here’s why PSAM and Myers earned my trust in cold climates: industry-leading 3-year warranty, 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, 300 series stainless construction in the Predator Plus Series, Teflon-impregnated staging that tolerates grit from winter drawdowns, Pentek XE motors with thermal overload and lightning protection, and field-serviceable threaded assemblies. That combination is exactly what winter demands.
#1. Protect the Wellhead and Pitless Adapter – 300 Series Stainless, Pitless Integrity, and Cold Sealing
A wellhead is the system’s front line in winter; if frost reaches your pitless adapter, leaks appear and pressure collapses. Protecting this zone keeps your PSAM Myers installation dry, sealed, and dependable.
Technically speaking, a Myers Predator Plus Series uses a 4" submersible form factor with a 300 series stainless steel shell, discharge bowl, and suction screen—components that resist corrosion when winter salt and acidic meltwater trickle around the casing. At grade, ensure the well cap seals tight with an intact gasket. The pitless adapter (buried below frost line) must be aligned and leak-free. On pulls, I confirm the O-ring is supple, re-lube with potable-safe silicone, and check the drop pipe threads. Stainless threads paired with a threaded assembly simplify field service if you ever need a cold-weather pull.
For context, compared to Goulds models that still use select cast iron components in some assemblies, stainless interfaces on a Myers reduce rust-jacking in freeze-thaw conditions. That rigidity keeps the seal consistent and reduces weeping at the pitless seat—worth every single penny over the long haul.
The Bhullars’ pitless O-ring was flat and cracked. We replaced it, reseated the adapter, and sealed the well cap correctly. Night and day difference in pressure retention.
Insulate the Well Cap Zone
Wrap a removable, weather-rated insulation jacket over the well cap standpipe. Keep it removable for servicing. Never bury or permanently enclose; you need airflow and access.
Verify Pitless Depth vs Frost Line
In northern zones, frost lines run 42–60 inches. Confirm pitless depth is below local frost depth. If not, re-set. Prevention costs far less than a midwinter excavation.
Replace O-Rings and Gaskets Before Winter
Elastomers harden in the cold. Replace suspect seals around the pitless and cap annually with potable-grade components. A $12 seal can save a $400 dig.
Key takeaway: Button up the wellhead and pitless assembly before the first hard freeze; a sealed stainless system is your winter foundation.
#2. Insulate and Anchor the Drop Pipe – Torque Arrestor, Cable Guard, and Intake Screen Check
Cold doesn’t reach your submersible pump, but shock loads from freezing at shallow sections can twist and stress the column. Secure and insulate where appropriate.
Technically, a torque arrestor positioned above the pump stabilizes startup torque—especially on Pentek XE motors. Add cable guards at intervals to prevent wire chafing. The drop pipe from the pitless to the pump should remain below frost. Above-grade transitions must be insulated or rerouted below frost. Check the intake screen for iron sludge or scale that may shift in winter as water levels fluctuate; Teflon-impregnated staging will tolerate grit, but you still don’t want big debris lodged at the inlet.
Contractor tip: While Franklin Electric units often run well, their proprietary controls and dealer lock-ins complicate quick, field winter pulls. Myers’ field serviceable threaded build and standard components let any qualified contractor shorten downtime—worth every single penny when a January outage hits.
For the Bhullars, I added a second cable guard mid-column, replaced the torque arrestor, and confirmed no rub points. A quiet system is a durable system.
Prevent Drop Pipe Rubbing
At each 20-foot joint, ensure the cable is neatly taped with UV-resistant, submersible-rated tape and guarded. No slapping wire = fewer shorts.
Insulate Any Exposed Risers
If a short run must pass through a crawlspace or unheated mechanical room, slip on closed-cell foam insulation sleeves and seal joints.
Verify Safety Rope Condition
A frayed safety rope invites heartbreak during a winter pull. Replace with a potable-safe, braided line rated for the pump’s weight plus margin.
Key takeaway: Stabilize the column and protect wires. Smooth starts and silent runs equal long life in winter.
#3. Calibrate the Pressure Tank and Switch – BEP Efficiency, Pressure Ranges, and Cold Start Strategy
Winter viscosity increases pump load. Slightly widening your pressure range reduces short cycling and improves system stability.
Technically, a 10 GPM submersible well pump running near best efficiency point (BEP) lowers amperage draw and runs cooler. Set your pressure switch at 40/60 PSI or 30/50 PSI depending on household demand, and preset the tank air charge to 2 PSI below cut-in. Example: for 40/60, charge to 38 PSI with water drained. Oversized tanks minimize short-cycling during cold starts; undersized vessels hammer the contacts.
Compared to budget brands like Everbilt or Flotec that often push motors harder at off-curve conditions, a Myers operating near BEP with proper tank calibration sips power and avoids thermal stress—worth every single penny in winter reliability.
For Mateo and Priya, we recharged their 86-gallon tank to 38 PSI, changed the switch springs, and verified cycling under multiple fixtures. No chatter, no pressure nose-dives.
Match Tank Size to GPM
For a 10 GPM pump, a larger diaphragm tank (60–86 gallons nominal) increases drawdown and reduces rapid cycles in cold mornings.
Inspect Contact Points
Open the pressure switch. Lightly file or replace pitted contacts. Cold air makes weak springs lazier; fresh springs and contacts pay off.
Add a Pressure Gauge at the Tee
Install a reliable gauge on the tank tee. Watching real-time cut-in/cut-out helps diagnose freezing or check valve leaks fast.
Key takeaway: Minor pressure and tank tweaks make a major difference when winter increases load and reduces water temperature.
#4. Drain and Isolate Seasonal Branches – Check Valves, Hydrants, and Quick-Drain Fittings
Any line you don’t heat must be drained or isolated. One frozen hose bib can back up problems into your main line.
Technically, install upstream ball valves and check valves so you can isolate barns, hydrants, and garden lines. Add a low-point drain cock at each seasonal branch so gravity can purge the line. In systems with a 1-1/4" NPT discharge, use a branch manifold with clearly labeled zones. Shut off and blow out with low-pressure air (20–30 PSI) if lines trap water.
Compared to Red Lion systems myers deep well water pump with thermoplastic housings, a Myers-equipped setup with stainless and proper valving resists crack propagation during pressure spikes caused by ice. That’s durability you feel every winter—worth every single penny.
Priya forgot the garden line last December; it froze, split, and siphoned air. We added a drain cock and tagged shut-offs. No repeat surprises.
Install Frost-Proof Yard Hydrants Correctly
Seat the drain port below frost depth. Backfill with pea gravel around the sump pocket so hydrants actually drain.
Label Valves and Train the Household
Simple tags: “Winter OFF / Drain Here.” Teach every adult where to shut water when temperatures plunge.
Add an Air Purge Port
A hose-to-air adapter lets you purge long runs gently. Avoid overpressurizing—keep it low and steady.
Key takeaway: Every seasonal line needs a plan to fully drain. Winter is unforgiving to trapped water.
#5. Protect Power and Controls – Pentek XE Motor, Lightning Protection, and Control Box Dryness
Reliable power is half the winter battle. Frozen conduits and wet control boxes cause shorts at the worst time.
Technically, Myers Predator Plus submersibles paired with Pentek XE motors include thermal overload protection and lightning protection, giving you a buffer when line voltage dips or storms hit. Keep splices watertight using heat-shrink wire splice kits rated for submersible duty. For 3-wire systems, mount the control box indoors or in a heated enclosure, drip-loop all conductors, and seal conduit entries to prevent condensation.
Here’s the reality: compared to Grundfos systems that tend to favor more complex 3-wire and electronics, a 2-wire configuration on Myers can cut upfront cost and simplify winter troubleshooting by $200–$400 in control gear—worth every single penny when you need quick restoration.
The Bhullars had a damp, unheated control enclosure with no gasket. We moved it inside and resealed the conduit. Zero nuisance trips since.
Verify Voltage Under Load
Cold mornings sag voltage. Use a clamp meter to check amperage draw vs nameplate. If you’re near FLA, reduce cycling or consult pump curves.
Reseal Conduit with Duct Seal
Water follows wire. Pack penetrations with duct seal to block moist air migration and condensation.
Upgrade to NEMA 3R/4 Enclosures
Outdoor boxes need weather-tight ratings. Rusty hinge? Replace. Winter is not the time for marginal covers.
Key takeaway: Dry, sealed controls and protected splices let your Myers motor do its job, even on the coldest morning.
#6. Cold-Ready Materials Matter – 300 Series Stainless, Teflon-Impregnated Staging, and Nitrile Bearings
Winter amplifies material weaknesses. Choose cold-tolerant and corrosion-resistant components throughout the well system.
Technically, the Predator Plus’ Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers endure grit from winter drawdowns better than standard composites. Nitrile rubber bearings stay pliable in cold water, maintaining film lubrication. The comprehensive use of 300 series stainless steel eliminates the rust-jacking and pitting that plague cast iron and low-grade metal parts. Winter water with higher dissolved oxygen and turbulence won’t corrode stainless like lesser alloys.
In a direct comparison to Goulds cast-iron-adjacent components, Myers’ stainless internals better resist acidic conditions and cold-induced condensation inside the casing—worth every single penny for long-term clarity and consistent flow.
Mateo had minor sand intrusion during January drawdown. The Myers staging shrugged it off, no grinding, no performance dip.
Use Stainless and Brass Above Grade
Stick to stainless or lead-free brass for tank tees, unions, and nipples. Avoid pot metal and thin-walled fittings that crack in cold snaps.
Choose Cold-Rated Pipe Dope and Teflon Tape
Apply sealants rated for low temperature. Brittle sealants leak when fittings shrink in cold air.
Replace Aging Rubber Components
Old check valve flappers stiffen in winter. Swap to fresh, potable-rated parts before the deep freeze.
Key takeaway: Material choices show up in winter performance. Build with stainless, quality elastomers, and cold-rated sealants.
#7. Verify Pump Curve vs Winter Demand – TDH, Staging, and 1 HP vs 1.5 HP Decisions
Winter’s higher water viscosity and pressure targets can expose an undersized pump. Confirm your pump curve meets the seasonal load.
Technically, add up TDH (total dynamic head): vertical lift, friction loss, and pressure requirement (PSI x 2.31). A 240-ft well with a static level at 120 ft, a home top fixture at 20 ft, and a 60 PSI target equals about 120 + 20 + (60 x 2.31 ≈ 139) = ~279 ft TDH plus friction. A 1 HP, 10 GPM Predator Plus may sit near its curve’s efficient zone for that TDH. If you push 15 GPM at that head, a 1.5 HP model with additional stages might be smarter to maintain BEP in winter.
Here’s where Franklin Electric often forces proprietary control alignments when upsizing. Myers’ flexible lineup in 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP, 1 HP, 1.5 HP, 2 HP lets you pick the right staging and stay efficient—worth every single penny when you avoid overheated motors.
For the Bhullars, their 1 HP was spot-on for 10 GPM at their measured TDH. We verified with PSAM’s pump curve charts.
Measure Static and Pumping Levels
Use an electric tape to record levels. Winter water can drop. The curve you need in August may not hold in February.
Reassess Pressure Needs
If you run 60 PSI mainly for a third-floor shower, consider a booster pump instead of pushing the well pump off-curve.
Consult PSAM for Curves
We stock pump curve charts and can size in minutes. Right-sizing prevents winter stalls and nuisance trips.
Key takeaway: Confirm your Predator Plus is matched to winter TDH. Proper staging is efficiency, longevity, and peace of mind.
#8. Winterize Jet Pumps and Surface Components – Convertible Jet Pump, Priming, and Drain-Back
Not every property runs a submersible. Some of you have a jet pump in a crawlspace or outbuilding. Winterizing is non-negotiable.
Technically, a convertible jet pump or shallow well pump must be in a heated space or fully drained. Install a drain valve at the pump body. Use a well seal at the top of the casing, and add a foot valve at the end of the suction line if applicable. Prime with potable antifreeze only if the manufacturer approves; otherwise, drain the pump and suction line dry. Remember, suction lines freeze faster because they’re partially filled after shutdown.
Compared to some store-brand surface pumps with thermoplastic volutes that crack, a Myers jet pump with metal housings and proper drain-down tolerates winter cycles—worth every single penny if you must run surface.
The Bhullars’ neighbor, Janelle, had a shallow jet system in a shed. We installed heat tape, a thermostat, and insulation, plus a positive shut-off and drain for the suction line. No more broken volutes.
Add Heat Tape and Thermostat
Wrap suction and discharge lines with UL-listed heat cable. Insulate over the cable, and set the thermostat to 38–42°F.
Install a Priming Port with Plug
Make priming easy. A dedicated port reduces time in cold fingers, and you’ll actually do the maintenance.
Drain the Pressure Switch Body
Frozen switches split. Add a micro-drain or relocate to a warm area with a short sensing line.
Key takeaway: Surface pumps survive winter only with heat, drainage, and discipline. Build those in now.
#9. Sumps, Sewage, and Grinders in Cold Weather – Myers Sump Pump, Sewage Pump, and Grinder Pump Protection
Your potable water isn’t the only system at risk. Basements and outbuildings rely on pumps that also deserve winter attention.
Technically, a Myers sump pump should have a free-draining discharge with a downhill slope. If any section traps water outdoors, install a low-point drain fitting. A Myers sewage pump or Myers grinder pump in a sealed basin requires a vent that doesn’t ice up and a check valve inside conditioned space. Heat trace any external discharge lines and insulate. Test the float switch and run a gallon through monthly; cold floats stick, and the first sign is a flooded pit.
Budget sump brands often ship with minimal warranties and plastic checks that split. Myers’ heavy-duty checks and motors keep pace all winter—worth every single penny when your basement stays dry.
For the Bhullars, we re-pitched their sump discharge, protected the exposed elbow with insulation, and added a drain tee at the lowest exterior point. No freeze-backs since.
Move the Check Valve Indoors
An indoor check prevents trapped water from freezing outside. Keep the valve vertical and accessible for service.
Insulate Exterior Risers
Use UV-rated foam with a weather jacket. Tape joints to prevent wind wash that defeats insulation.
Test Backup Power
Sump and grinder outages during winter storms are common. Verify generator capacity and transfer. Pumps need real watts, not wishful thinking.
Key takeaway: Waste and drainage pumps are part of your winter water ecosystem. Treat them with the same seriousness as your well pump.
#10. Rapid-Thaw and Recovery Plan – Safe Thawing, Leak Checks, and Post-Freeze Diagnostics
Even well-prepared systems can see a frozen elbow after a polar plunge. Plan your response before it happens.
Technically, start with a space heater or heat gun on low, sweeping motion, on exposed frozen sections. Do not overheat PVC or PEX. Open a nearby faucet to relieve pressure as ice melts. Once flow resumes, check the pressure gauge at the tank tee for steady recovery. Watch for short cycling, which signals a failing check valve or leak. If you suspect damage at the drop pipe or pitless adapter, kill power at the breaker and call PSAM or your contractor. A controlled pump pull in winter beats a burnt motor.
Contractor comparison: when systems are dealer-locked (common with some Franklin Electric setups), lead times for proprietary parts can stretch. A PSAM-supplied Myers Predator Plus with standard components and field serviceable design gets you back faster—worth every single penny in an emergency.
For Mateo and Priya, we wrote a one-page recovery script and taped it in the utility room. The next cold snap, they thawed a hydrant branch in minutes—no panic.
Keep a Winter Go-Bag
Include heat tape, hose-to-air adapter, duct seal, spare pressure switch, contacts, a gauge, and potable antifreeze (if approved).
Log Pressures and Amps
Record normal cut-in/cut-out and amperage draw monthly. Deviations after a freeze tell you exactly where to look.
Call Before You Pull
Winter pulls are safe with the right rigging. If you don’t have it, call PSAM. We’ll coordinate gear and steps with your contractor.
Key takeaway: A rehearsed plan converts a midwinter freeze into a manageable maintenance event.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Goulds and Franklin in Winterized Systems
Technical performance analysis:
- Materials: Myers’ pervasive use of 300 series stainless steel for shell, discharge bowl, shaft, and suction screen resists winter corrosion and pitting. Some Goulds assemblies include cast iron that can rust-jack under freeze-thaw. Motor-wise, Myers couples with Pentek XE high-thrust, thermal protected motors; Franklin motors perform, but often pair with proprietary controls. Efficiency: Myers Predator Plus achieves 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, saving energy when cold water raises pumping effort. Impellers: Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers tolerates grit from winter drawdowns better than standard composites.
Real-world application differences:
- Field serviceability: Myers’ threaded assembly is contractor-friendly for on-site service, crucial during winter pulls. Maintenance: Stainless and nitrile components hold up in cold starts and high-pressure ranges (40/60). Service life: Expect 8–15 years with proper winterization; short-cycling, frozen fittings, and corroded parts shorten life dramatically on mixed-metal systems. Long-term costs: Myers’ 3-year warranty beats the 12–18 month crowd, reducing replacement frequency and emergency calls.
Value proposition conclusion:
- For rural homeowners depending on daily water in subzero weather, the Myers + PSAM combination is reliable, efficient, and fully supported. The stainless build, Pentair backing, and fast PSAM shipping make the investment worth every single penny.
FAQ – Winterizing Myers Water Well Pumps
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start by calculating TDH (total dynamic head): vertical lift from static water level to the highest fixture, plus pressure (PSI x 2.31), plus friction loss. A 240-foot well with a static level at 120 ft and a 60 PSI target yields around 279 ft TDH before friction. Match your flow requirement—typical homes need 7–12 GPM. On a Myers Predator Plus curve, a 1 HP may handle 10 GPM at ~280–300 ft TDH, while 15 GPM at that head usually needs 1.5 HP and more stages. Verify your voltage (most are 230V single-phase) and wire size to control voltage drop. In a real case, the Bhullars’ 1 HP 10 GPM Myers met their two-bath + laundry demand comfortably. Rick’s recommendation: call PSAM with your static level, target PSI, fixture count, and pipe length. We’ll read the pump curve and size precisely.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most single-family homes operate well at 8–12 GPM. Large families, irrigation, or livestock needs can push this to 15–20 GPM. A multi-stage pump stacks impellers to increase head (pressure capability) at a given horsepower, allowing you to hit 50–60 PSI while maintaining GPM. Myers Predator Plus models use engineered composite impellers in Teflon-impregnated staging to deliver pressure without grinding down under light grit. For example, a Myers 10 GPM, 1 HP unit may provide 60 PSI at depth, while a 15 GPM, 1.5 HP version maintains higher flows at the same pressure. Rick’s recommendation: size to your peak demand, then confirm you’re operating near the pump’s BEP on the curve for energy efficiency and longevity.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Myers Predator Plus reaches 80%+ efficiency at BEP through tight hydraulic tolerances, optimized diffuser design, and low-friction self-lubricating impellers. The Pentek XE motor contributes with high-thrust capabilities and reduced losses under load. As cold water increases viscosity, pumps drift off-curve; the Predator Plus’ multi-stage design and motor pairing keep it close to BEP, reducing amperage draw. Efficiency equals lower operating costs—often 15–20% savings annually. In field comparisons, budget pumps that run off-curve use more power and short-cycle. Rick’s recommendation: use PSAM’s pump curve charts to land your system in the sweet spot through winter.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
300 series stainless steel resists corrosion, pitting, and rust-jacking caused by oxygenated cold water and seasonal chemistry shifts. Cast iron in cold climates scales and flakes; trapped rust can seize rotating assemblies and compromise seals. Stainless also holds threads and gasket interfaces more reliably through freeze-thaw cycles. Myers extends stainless beyond the shell to the discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen, eliminating mixed-metal galvanic problems. Rick’s recommendation: in northern states, insist on stainless for any submersible’s wet components; it’s the backbone of a 10+ year service life.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging incorporates low-friction surfaces so micro-abrasives slide instead of cutting. Combined with nitrile rubber bearings and tight clearances, grit stays mobile and less destructive. In winter, drawdown can introduce sand; these impellers tolerate it far better than standard composites, keeping efficiency stable and preventing runaway wear. In the Bhullar case, slight midwinter sand didn’t affect flow or noise—textbook result. Rick’s recommendation: if your well has seasonal grit, Predator Plus staging is a must-have safeguard.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor couples high thrust capability with optimized windings and thermal overload protection. It runs cooler at load, resists voltage sag, and includes lightning protection—all vital in winter when power fluctuates. High thrust maintains axial stability across multiple impeller stages, minimizing mechanical losses. Lower heat equals longer insulation life, which translates to 8–15 years of service when paired with proper system sizing. Rick’s recommendation: confirm amperage under load with a clamp meter in winter; a well-matched XE motor stays below nameplate Full Load Amps.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Capable DIYers can install, but winter conditions raise the stakes. You’ll need a hoist tripod or boom, drop pipe, torque arrestor, safety rope, wire splice kit, pitless adapter alignment tools, and accurate pressure/voltage diagnostics. Missteps—like poor splices, wrong pressure switch settings, or insufficient wire gauge—show up faster in the cold. Contractors bring pull rigs, megger testers, and experience interpreting pump curve behavior under real conditions. Rick’s recommendation: if you’re replacing like-for-like in good weather, advanced DIY can work. For deep wells (>150 ft), new sizing, or winter pulls, hire a pro. PSAM can recommend trusted installers and supply every component in one shipment.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump has starting components integrated in the motor; it simplifies installation, reduces parts, and often saves $200–$400 on a control box. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box for capacitors and relays—handy for above-ground diagnostics and part replacement. Myers offers both. In cold climates, fewer external components mean fewer condensation risks; however, some contractors prefer 3-wire for easy troubleshooting. Rick’s recommendation: for most residential wells, a 2-wire Myers Predator Plus is efficient, reliable, and winter-friendly. For specialized diagnostics or long wire runs, 3-wire can make sense.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With proper sizing, voltage management, and winterization, expect 8–15 years. I’ve seen 20–30 years when water chemistry is kind and maintenance is consistent. Key factors: running near BEP, a correct pressure tank size to avoid short cycling, stainless components, and annual winter checks. The 3-year warranty gives a strong early-life safety net; if a pump survives the first winters without abuse, you’re likely in great shape. The Bhullars’ unit is tracking perfectly after their first hard winter with proper prep. Rick’s recommendation: schedule a pre-winter inspection every October—cheap insurance.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually (pre-winter): Inspect well cap and pitless adapter seals; test pressure switch cut-in/cut-out; set tank precharge; check splices; verify amperage under load. Seasonally: Drain and isolate exterior branches; test sump/grinder operation; verify yard hydrant drain-back. As needed: Replace worn check valves; clean or replace clogged intake screens; reseal conduit entries with duct seal; adjust pressure for seasonal demand. Rick’s recommendation: keep a log of PSI, amperage, and runtime. Deviations tell you about pending issues before failure.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty outpaces many competitors at 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. When combined with PSAM’s fast shipping and parts availability, downtime drops dramatically. Goulds and Franklin warranties vary by model and distributor; in practice, warranty success depends on Plumbing Supply and More myers pump documentation and installation quality. Rick’s recommendation: register your pump, keep install photos, and save your pressure/amp logs. With Myers, the odds and the paperwork are in your favor.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
A budget pump priced 30–40% lower often lasts 3–5 years and runs off-curve in winter, increasing electric costs and risking early motor failure. Two to three replacements over a decade erase any upfront “savings.” A Myers Predator Plus—efficient near BEP, stainless, Pentek XE motor, and backed by 3-year warranty—typically needs no mid-cycle replacement. Factor 15–20% lower energy use and minimal emergency calls, and the Myers/PSAM package wins on cost and sanity. Rick’s recommendation: buy once, install right, and winterize. The math and the reliability are worth every single penny.
Conclusion
Winter punishes weak links: a leaking pitless seal, a mis-set pressure tank, an uninsulated hydrant, a damp control box. When those pieces are right, your PSAM-supplied Myers system does what it was built to do—deliver steady, efficient water through the coldest months. Stainless from the shell to the screen, Teflon-impregnated staging that shrugs off grit, Pentek XE motors that don’t flinch at cold loads, and a 3-year warranty backed by Pentair and PSAM’s same-day shipping. That’s why I recommend Myers to families like Mateo and Priya Bhullar—and why I recommend it to you.
If you want help sizing, picking a 2-wire configuration to simplify winter maintenance, or assembling a complete kit (pump, tank tee, pressure switch, check valve, fittings, and insulation materials), call PSAM. We’ll read your curve, ship what you need, and keep your water flowing when winter tries to say otherwise.
Stay warm, stay ready—and enjoy a winter without well pump drama.