A cold shower, silent faucets, and the pressure gauge stuck at zero—when a well pump loses power, your home stops. In rural life, water isn’t optional; it’s everything. As PSAM’s technical advisor and a guy who has pulled more dead pumps than I care to count, I can tell you most “pump failures” start as power problems: tripped breakers, burned splices, failed pressure switches, or a motor that’s seen one lightning surge too many. The good news? With a structured approach, you can diagnose power issues on a Myers pump quickly and safely.
Meet the Nguyens. Bao Nguyen (41), a high school math teacher, and his spouse, Kim (39), a veterinary technician, live on six acres outside Corvallis, Oregon with two kids—Maya (11) and Theo (8)—and a backyard flock of laying hens. Their 240-foot private well feeds the home and irrigation. After a long Saturday, the kitchen tap sputtered out. Their breaker wasn’t tripped. The pressure switch looked fine. The old competitor pump—an aging 1 HP Franklin—had been limping along with short cycles and rising power bills. Overnight, it died completely. With animals to water and school Monday morning, the Nguyens needed answers fast.
If you’re troubleshooting a power issue on a Myers well system—whether a Myers submersible well pump from the Predator Plus Series, a Myers jet pump on a shallow well, or even a Myers sump pump or Myers grinder pump in a lift station—this list walks you from simple checks to expert-level diagnostics. We’ll verify incoming power, inspect controls, measure voltages and amperage, isolate motor faults, and show where Myers’ engineering gives you a safety net. Along the way, I’ll call out specific parts, specs, and pro tips, and I’ll explain why PSAM’s Myers solutions are worth installing once and keeping for the long haul.
Before we dive in, a few credentials worth knowing: Myers’ 3-year warranty, 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, Pentek XE motor with thermal overload protection and lightning protection, and 300 series stainless steel construction. Backed by Pentair engineering and supported by PSAM with same-day shipping on in-stock items, you’ve got quality and speed on your side.
Let’s go step-by-step.
#1. Verify Line Power and Circuit Integrity – 230V, Breaker, and Pressure Switch Basics for Residential Well Systems
When your Myers pump goes silent, start at the source: confirm 230V is actually reaching the system and that protection devices haven’t silently failed.
The typical residential setup: a dedicated double-pole breaker feeding a pressure switch and either a 2-wire well pump or a 3-wire well pump with a control box. With power off, inspect wire insulation for heat damage at the breaker and switch lugs. With power on, measure line-to-line voltage at the pressure switch. Expected range: 228–240 VAC for a 230V pump. A reading below 210 VAC indicates a feed issue that can mimic pump failure.
Bao found 235V at the breaker, but only 178V at the pressure switch—a corroded lug on the line side was stealing voltage. Cleaning and tightening restored 234V at the switch, a quick win before moving deeper.
Voltage at the Source: Meter, Range, and Safety
Use a CAT III-rated multimeter, insulated probes, and PPE. Confirm 230V at breaker lugs, then at the switch line terminals. Loss greater than 5% between breaker and switch suggests a conductor or connection defect.
Pressure Switch: Contacts, Cut-In/Out, and Points
Open the switch cover. Are contacts pitted, welded, or carbonized? Gently file high spots or replace. Verify cut-in (typ. 30, 40, or 50 PSI) and cut-out (50, 60, or 70 PSI) using the gauge. Welded contacts can keep a motor energized and overheated.
Voltage Drop Under Load
With a running system (or controlled test), watch voltage sag. If it dips below ~215V under load, the motor will run hot, draw higher amperage, and trip internal protectors. Fix drop at the source before condemning the pump.
Key takeaway: Confirm clean, stable 230V to the switch and load side. Solve supply problems first.
#2. Identify System Type – 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Myers Submersible, Control Box Role, and What Fails First
Different power paths demand different checks. A 2-wire configuration integrates the start mechanism inside the Pentek XE motor. A 3-wire configuration relies on an external control box—housing the start capacitor, run capacitor (on some models), and relay.
Kim’s old Franklin 3-wire used a separate control box. Under inspection, the start capacitor had bulged and leaked—a classic no-start scenario. After swapping to a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP 10 GPM with a 2-wire motor, the Nguyens simplified their system and eliminated a common failure point.
2-Wire Advantage: Fewer Parts, Fewer Failures
A 2-wire Myers with an internal start circuit means fewer external components to fail. For many homes up to ~300 feet TDH and 1–1.5 HP, 2-wire is practical and reliable, especially with lightning protection built into the motor.
3-Wire Diagnostics: Control Box First
If you’ve got a 3-wire Myers, pull the box cover. Look for swollen capacitors, scorched relays, or loose spade connectors. Test the capacitor with a meter that reads microfarads. A failed start cap is a very common no-start culprit.
Labeling and Lead Colors
Document wire colors: typically Red/Yellow/Black to the motor on 3-wire. On 2-wire, it’s usually two hots plus ground. Always photograph wiring before changes. Mislabeled leads create phantom problems.
Key takeaway: Know your system configuration. If a 3-wire system won’t start, check that control box before pulling the pump.
#3. Measure Voltage to the Motor – Load-Side Checks, Splice Kits, and Pitless Adapter Connections
If power enters the switch but the pump still won’t run, measure voltage beyond the switch and control box. For submersibles, verify at the load terminals and, if accessible, at the well cap before the drop.
In the Nguyens’ case, we had 233V at the control box load lugs, but intermittent voltage at the cap due to a compromised wire nut and moisture intrusion—someone had “repaired” it years ago without a wire splice kit. Replacing with a heat-shrink, gel-filled kit restored continuity and kept the splice watertight.
Load-Side Verification: Step-by-Step
- Pressure switch load terminals: 230V present? Control box output (3-wire only): 230V on Y-B (run) and Y-R (start) during start-up? At the well cap: 230V steady? If not, suspect the conductor between house and well.
Splice and Jacket Checks
Look for green corrosion, cracked insulation, or tape-only joints. Use proper submersible-rated splices. Poor splices cause heat, voltage drop, and nuisance trips.
Pitless Adapter and Conductor Strain
At the pitless adapter, inspect for crushed insulation or sharp bends. Add a torque arrestor and cable guard on reinstall to protect wiring during motor start.
Key takeaway: Verify clean voltage all the way to the wellhead. Any weak link here wastes hours and risks an unnecessary pull.
#4. Check Amperage Draw – Compare to Nameplate, Detect Locked Rotor, and Save the Motor
A motor that’s getting proper voltage but drawing wrong amperage is sending a message. Compare measured amps to the nameplate on the Pentek XE motor. Normal run amps indicate a healthy motor and pump. High amps with no water flow suggests a mechanical bind or locked rotor. Low amps may point to partial voltage, bad caps (3-wire), or a failing winding.
Before upgrading, Bao’s Franklin motor pulled 11.2A on a 1 HP unit rated ~8.4A at 230V—overcurrent from a failing start circuit and worn bearings. The replacement Myers ran at 8.1A, smooth and quiet, right on spec.
Clamp Meter Technique
Place the clamp on a single conductor, not both. Capture inrush during start and stabilized run current. A huge inrush that doesn’t taper often indicates a failed start capacitor or relay (3-wire) or a bound pump/motor.
Locked Rotor Clues
A humming motor with high amps and no flow means stop immediately to avoid thermal damage. With thermal overload protection, the Myers motor will trip, but repeated attempts can still harm windings.
Normal Doesn’t Mean Perfect
Normal amps but frequent cycling? Check the pressure tank and air charge. Electrical and mechanical symptoms often overlap.
Key takeaway: Amps tell the truth. Always compare to nameplate and the pump curve load expectations.
#5. Pressure Switch and Tank Teamwork – Contacts, Diaphragm, and Air Charge Affect Power Cycling
Repeated clicking, rapid cycling, or no engagement can all be blamed on a tired pressure switch or an improperly charged pressure tank. These aren’t just plumbing components—they control when your motor receives power.
The Nguyens’ switch looked fine, but the tank’s air charge was down to 18 PSI on a 40/60 system. That short cycling was hammering the old motor. After recharging to 38 PSI (2 PSI below cut-in) and replacing the switch with a quality 40/60, https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/1-2-hp-9-stage-submersible-well-pump-for-deep-water.html the system stabilized.
Setpoints and Deadband
Common settings: 30/50 or 40/60. Verify with a known-good gauge. Too narrow a differential forces frequent power cycles—bad for any motor.
Precharge Procedure
With power off and water drained, set tank air to 2 PSI below cut-in using a reliable tire gauge. Check annually. Undercharged tanks cause rapid on/off and hot motors.
Contacts and Line Voltage Exposure
Dirty or chattering contacts arc, overheat, and burn. Replace the switch if contacts are pitted. Always torque terminal screws to spec and route wires cleanly.
Key takeaway: Stable switch operation and correct tank charge protect your motor from needless power cycles.
#6. Capacitors and Relays (3-Wire Systems) – Diagnosing Start Failure Without Pulling the Pump
For 3-wire well pump setups, the control box is your first stop. A failed start capacitor or start relay will prevent the motor from spinning even when full voltage is present. It’s a cheap, easy fix.
Kim’s control box showed a 88–108 μF capacitor reading near zero—dead. A new box got the old pump to spin, but high amps and bearing noise told us it was on borrowed time. The smart move was a full upgrade to a Myers Predator Plus Series submersible.
Visual and Meter Checks
- Bulging top or leaking electrolyte = replace. Microfarad reading outside ±10% of rating = replace. Burned relay contacts or coil = replace.
Intermittent Starts
Hot day, long run, sudden stop? Thermal overloads in the motor can trip from repeated failed starts. Fix the start circuit, then test under load.
Spare Box on the Shelf
Pros keep a spare box for diagnostics. If swapping a known-good box starts the pump, you’ve saved a pull.
Key takeaway: On 3-wire Myers systems, rule out control box issues before assuming a bad motor.
#7. Wire Gauge, Run Length, and Breaker Size – Prevent Hidden Voltage Drop and Nuisance Trips
Undersized conductors starve motors. Excessive voltage drop causes high amperage draw, thermal trips, and early failure. For a 230V 1 HP submersible at 8–9A, you’ll typically want 12 AWG copper up to ~300 feet total run, 10 AWG for longer. Always cross-check with the pump manual and NEC tables.
The Nguyens’ feed used 14 AWG on a 180-foot run from panel to well—marginal. Upgrading to 12 AWG improved start performance and knocked a tenth of an amp off the running current.
Breaker Sizing
Use the manufacturer’s recommended breaker—commonly 20A for 1 HP at 230V single-phase. Oversized breakers mask problems; undersized ones nuisance-trip.
Connections and Lugs
Loose lugs generate heat and drop. Torque to spec. Oxidation under lugs is common in damp pump houses—clean and protect.
Voltage Drop Math
Aim for less than 5% drop total. If you’re seeing more, step up a wire size or shorten the run where possible.
Key takeaway: Proper wire size is cheap insurance for long pump life.
#8. Lightning, Transients, and Protection – Why Pentek XE Motor Safeguards Matter
Rural systems are lightning magnets. A surge that leaves your lights intact can still punch a hole in a motor winding. The Pentek XE motor in a Myers submersible well pump includes lightning protection and thermal overload protection that blunt these hits.
In the Willamette Valley, we see violent spring storms. Bao installed a Type 2 surge protective device at the well circuit and a secondary SPD at the main panel. Since the swap, not a single nuisance trip or unexplained shutdown.
Surge Protection Layers
- Panel SPD to clamp large surges Branch circuit SPD near pressure switch Proper grounding and bonding at the well casing
Motor Thermal Protection
If the pump runs dry or experiences overload, internal protectors open the circuit, cool, and reset. That prevents an immediate burnout and buys time to diagnose.
Replacement Costs vs Protection
One $80–$150 SPD can save a $900 pump and a weekend without water.
Key takeaway: Surge protection complements the Myers motor’s built-in defenses and eliminates a common cause of power-related failures.
#9. Field-Serviceable Design – Threaded Assembly, Check Valve, and On-Site Repairs vs Dealer-Only Systems
Downtime is the enemy. A field serviceable threaded assembly on a Myers Predator Plus Series lets a qualified contractor swap a stage stack, replace an internal check valve, or inspect engineered composite impellers without junking the entire unit. That’s a meaningful power reliability advantage—when you can fix on site, you’re back online faster.
By contrast, some competitor lines push proprietary assemblies or require dealer-only procedures. In the Nguyens’ emergency, the PSAM build-out—pump, wire, pitless adapter, tank tee, and fittings—was on the truck the same day. Water was flowing by dinner.
Threaded Access, Real Savings
Disassemble, inspect, and reassemble on a tailgate. No long waits for a “special tool” or a brand-exclusive bench.
Internal Check Valve Matters
A myers pump parts stuck check valve causes dry starts and short cycles—both power abusers. Myers’ internal valve is robust and replaceable.
PSAM Support
We stock parts, kits, and curves. If you need it today, we ship today.
Key takeaway: Serviceability is uptime. Myers gives you options in the field that competitors often don’t.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Franklin Electric and Goulds Pumps
On materials and construction, a Myers Predator Plus uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. This resists corrosion from mineral-heavy or slightly acidic water. The Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce drag and abrasion from fine grit, maintaining performance and efficiency. Many Franklin and Goulds models are excellent units, but select Goulds offerings still incorporate cast iron components that can corrode in certain water chemistries, shortening life and increasing current draw over time as surfaces roughen and loads rise.
In real-world service, that difference shows up as fewer power-related overload trips and a steadier amperage draw over the lifespan. Myers’ Pentek XE motor also brings high-starting torque and thermal overload protection tuned to protect windings without excessive nuisance resets. Meanwhile, proprietary control ecosystems can complicate Franklin service paths and extend downtime when a control box fails.
For rural homeowners depending on a single pump, the value proposition is straightforward: longer corrosion resistance, simpler field service, and excellent motor protection equate to fewer outages and fewer emergency calls. Backed by PSAM stocking and support, Myers’ reliability is worth every single penny.
#10. Best Practice Grounding and Bonding – Quiet the Stray Voltages That Confuse Diagnostics
Unstable or missing grounds can create ghost readings and false starts. A well pump circuit demands solid grounding from panel to casing, continuous equipment grounds, and clean bonds.
During the Nguyens’ upgrade, we found a loose ground at the well cap. Bonding the casing and confirming continuity from panel to motor frame reduced electrical noise, prevented static shocks at the spigot, and stabilized control behavior.
Grounding Checklist
- Verify equipment ground continuity from panel to pressure switch, to control box (if present), to well cap, and to motor splice. Bond metal plumbing systems to the home’s grounding system. Use anti-oxidant on aluminum terminations if present.
Stray Voltage Symptoms
Chattering relays, random trips, or faint shocks at hose bibs. These aren’t normal; fix the grounding.
Surge Protector Ground Path
An SPD without a low-impedance ground is ornamental. Ensure a short, straight ground lead to the bar.
Key takeaway: Proper grounding prevents strange power behavior and protects electronics and motors.
#11. Motor Health Tests – Insulation Resistance (Megohm), Winding Resistance, and Lead Isolation
When voltages and controls check out, test the motor. A megohm test between each lead and ground on a de-energized system reveals insulation breakdown. Good motors typically show 20–200+ MΩ when dry and cool. Below 2 MΩ is concerning. Work safely—use a 500V or 1000V megger as recommended by the manufacturer.
Before replacing the Nguyens’ unit, we measured the old motor at 0.8 MΩ to ground—moisture intrusion and winding degradation from years of hard starts. The new Myers motor tested >200 MΩ out of the box.
Winding Balance (3-Wire Motors)
Measure resistance between Red-Yellow, Yellow-Black, and Red-Black. Compare to spec ratios. Large deviations indicate winding damage.
Lead Isolation
At the well cap, disconnect motor leads and test independently to isolate whether the cable or motor is at fault. Cables in steel wells sometimes chafe unnoticed.
Drying Attempts
If water infiltration is suspected but minimal, some pros attempt drying. Realistically, replacement is the correct fix for long-term reliability.
Key takeaway: Electrical tests confirm motor integrity and prevent wasted pulls or re-installs.
#12. Choose the Right Myers Model – Match TDH, GPM, and Wire Configuration to Stop Power Abuse at the Source
Many “power issues” start with wrong pump selection. Oversized horsepower spikes inrush and accelerates pressure swings. Undersized horsepower runs hot, trips thermals, and dies young. Use the pump curve, calculate TDH, and select a Myers that hits your best efficiency point (BEP) near your target GPM rating.
The Nguyens’ 240-foot well, 60 PSI target, 1–2 bath use, and light irrigation fit a Myers deep well pump: 1 HP, 10 GPM, roughly 11–13 stages depending on curve, 230V single-phase, 2-wire for simplicity. With friction losses, their TDH sat around 240–260 feet. At BEP, the Myers Predator Plus Series delivered steady pressure, clean starts, and an 8.1A run draw—right in the sweet spot.
Sizing Steps
- Determine static water level, pumping level, and drawdown. Add elevation change and pressure target (2.31 feet per PSI). Add friction loss from pipe size and length. Select the stage count and horsepower that meet flow at BEP.
Wire Configuration Decision
If simplicity and fewer components matter, go 2-wire. For specific control strategies or legacy systems, 3-wire is fine—just stock a spare control box.
Accessories Complete the System
Don’t forget a pitless adapter, check valve (if external), torque arrestor, safety rope, and a proper fittings kit at the tank tee.
Key takeaway: A correctly sized Myers reduces electrical stress, cuts energy costs up to 20%, and runs for years without drama.
Detailed Comparison: Myers vs Grundfos and Red Lion
On power management and installation simplicity, Myers’ broad availability of 2-wire configurations can cut $200–$400 by eliminating external control boxes, while still delivering confident starts via the Pentek XE platform. Grundfos builds excellent pumps, but many of their models rely on more complex control ecosystems and lean toward 3-wire or proprietary controls, which can increase upfront cost and complicate field diagnostics. For buyers prioritizing fast, clean installs and fewer external points of failure, Myers holds a practical edge.
Materials matter. Myers uses 300 series stainless steel shells and components; Red Lion’s reliance on more thermoplastic components in select models makes them vulnerable to cracking from thermal expansion and pressure cycling. Over time, that means nuisance leaks, air introduction, and odd electrical symptoms from frequent short cycles and motor starts.
For homeowners who must be back online today, the calculus is clear: simpler wiring, stainless durability, and strong motor protection translate to fewer surprise outages, fewer parts to diagnose, and less energy wasted. With PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock Myers pumps, the reliability dividend is worth every single penny.
Detailed Comparison: Warranty, Longevity, and Total Cost—Myers vs Budget Brands
The bottom line with power issues is downtime and cost. Myers offers an industry-leading 3-year warranty, where budget lines like Everbilt, Flotec, and some Wayne models typically hover around 1 year. That extra two years isn’t just paperwork—it reflects confidence in motor protection, impeller durability, and corrosion resistance. Myers Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers resist grit-induced load increases that force motors to pull high amps and overheat.
In practice, budget pumps often last 3–5 years and slowly draw more current as components wear, leading to tripped breakers, burned switches, and frustrated weekends pulling equipment. Myers submersibles routinely run 8–15 years under normal use, and I’ve seen 20–30 years with excellent care, correct sizing, and protective accessories.
If you’re rural and every outage means hauling water or shutting down chores, do the math: one high-quality install beats two or three budget replacements, lower power consumption near BEP reduces annual energy costs up to 20%, and PSAM’s technical support keeps you moving. Long-term, a Myers system is worth every single penny.
FAQ: Power and Performance with Myers Pumps
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with total dynamic head (TDH): add vertical lift (from pumping level to pressure tank), required pressure (PSI × 2.31 = feet), and friction loss from pipe length and diameter. Then define flow: a typical 3–4 person home needs 7–12 GPM. Cross-reference both on the Myers pump curve. For example, a 240-foot TDH at 10 GPM often aligns with a 1 HP Myers submersible well pump in the Predator Plus Series. Match the selected pump’s BEP near your target flow for best efficiency. Oversizing horsepower increases inrush and short cycles; undersizing overheats motors, causing thermal overload protection trips. If you’re unsure, send PSAM your well report, pressure settings, and fixture count—I’ll run numbers and recommend a 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP, 1 HP, 1.5 HP, or 2 HP Myers that fits your curve and keeps amperage where it belongs.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most homes operate comfortably at 7–12 GPM, with larger homes and irrigation running 12–20 GPM. A multi-stage pump builds pressure by stacking impellers—each stage adds head. The right number of stages ensures your pump can hit 50–70 PSI without strain. For instance, a 10 GPM, 1 HP Myers with 11–13 stages will deliver solid pressure to a 200–280 foot TDH system at efficient amperage draw. Undershooting stage count creates low pressure and long run times; overshooting moves you away from BEP, wasting energy. Check the curve, then size to your TDH and demand.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from tight tolerances, engineered composite impellers, and Teflon-impregnated staging that stays smooth under grit exposure. At or near BEP, many Predator Plus models exceed 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, which slashes energy consumption by up to 20% annually compared to pumps running off-curve. Couple that with a Pentek XE motor optimized for high-thrust and clean electrical characteristics, and you get stable amperage draw and cooler operation. Translation: fewer starts, fewer trips, and real savings. Install correctly, and you’ll notice consistent pressure without electrical drama.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
In-water components face oxygen-poor, mineral-rich environments. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion and pitting, holding dimensions and surface finish that maintain efficiency. Cast iron—common on some competitor stages—can corrode in acidic or iron-rich wells, increasing hydraulic drag and power draw. Myers uses stainless for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen, all lead-free and built for the long haul. Over time that means consistent GPM rating, fewer current spikes, and fewer mechanical binds that trip protection.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Fine sand acts like sandpaper. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging reduces friction coefficients, letting grit pass with minimal scuffing. The self-lubricating impellers maintain clearances longer, so the pump doesn’t have to work harder (draw more amps) to move the same water. On marginal wells with occasional sediment, I’ve seen Myers keep pressure steady and amperage near nameplate years longer than competitors using standard composites. It’s not invincible—filtration is still smart—but it’s tough enough to outlast typical wear cycles.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is built for submersible duty: precise rotor balance, efficient lamination stacks, and winding designs that handle high-thrust from multi-stage loads. With thermal overload protection and lightning protection, the motor rides out voltage flicker and surges that would cook lesser units. Lower internal losses show up as reduced heat and a steadier amperage draw, improving efficiency and extending bearing life. When paired with a pump sized to BEP, it’s the reason you’ll see 8–15 years of service—and more with great care.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
If you’re experienced with electrical work and comfortable with lifting rigs, you can DIY, especially with a 2-wire configuration and PSAM’s complete kits. That said, safety is paramount: 230V circuits, confined spaces at the wellhead, and heavy drop pipe are not casual tasks. Many homeowners hire a licensed well contractor for the pull and set, then handle the pressure tank, tank tee, and fittings kit themselves. If you do it solo, use a proper wire splice kit, torque clamps evenly, support with a safety rope, and protect conductors with a torque arrestor and cable guard. When in doubt, call us—I’ll review your plan.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump integrates the start components in the motor—fewer external parts and simpler wiring. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with a start capacitor and relay (and sometimes a run capacitor). Diagnostics differ: 3-wire systems allow easy capacitor swaps without pulling the pump, but they add more parts that can fail. As for performance, both deliver excellent results when properly sized. For many residential installs up to 1–1.5 HP, 2-wire is my go-to for simplicity and fewer power-related call-backs.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing, grounding, surge protection, and annual checks, expect 8–15 years reliably—often longer. I’ve serviced Myers units still running at 20+ years where the owner kept the pressure switch, pressure tank air charge, and electrical connections squared away. Protect against dry-run conditions, avoid sustained voltage below 215V, and keep starts per hour within recommended limits. The 3-year warranty gives you a safety net out of the gate, but care and sizing are what turn a decade into two.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
- Annually: Check tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), inspect pressure switch points, tighten electrical lugs, and verify ground continuity. Seasonally: Inspect surge protection indicator lights, test system pressure recovery, and watch the amperage draw under normal load. Every 3–5 years: Recheck well cap seals, confirm pitless adapter integrity, and inspect above-ground wiring for UV or rodent damage. Catch changes early—an extra amp of draw or slower recovery often precedes a failure. Track readings in a log. PSAM can provide a maintenance checklist.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces typical 12–18 month coverage seen with many competitors and budget lines. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. As always, improper installation, dry running, or incorrect voltage aren’t covered—no brand covers abuse. Pair that warranty with Made in USA quality, NSF/UL/CSA certifications, and PSAM’s documentation and you’ve got strong protection. Keep your receipts, note serial numbers, and call us at the first sign of trouble—we’ll help document and expedite.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps can look cheap at checkout and punishing later: more replacements (every 3–5 years), higher amperage draw as components wear, and more weekends down. A Myers Predator Plus Series submersible sized to BEP often cuts energy use by up to 20% and runs 8–15 years between replacements. Factor in one Myers install, basic parts, and routine maintenance versus two or three budget installs plus emergency labor. Over a decade, Myers typically wins by a wide margin—and you keep your Saturdays. That’s real total cost, not just sticker price.
Conclusion: Solve Power Issues Once—Then Stop Having Them
Power problems with a well pump don’t have to be a mystery. Verify voltage at each step, stabilize your pressure switch and pressure tank, size the pump to your TDH and GPM rating, and protect the circuit. Do that with a Myers submersible well pump—stainless construction, Pentek XE motor, Teflon-impregnated staging, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty—and you’ll turn a fragile system into a confident one.
Bao and Kim Nguyen went from weekend outage to steady water by dinner. Their new PSAM-supplied Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, 10 GPM at 230V, 2-wire configuration starts smooth, runs at spec amperage draw, and delivers consistent pressure at every tap. That’s what I want for every rural homeowner: reliable water, lower energy costs, and no drama.
Need help matching your well depth, wire sizing, and curve? Call PSAM. I’ll size it right, ship it today if it’s in stock, and make sure your Myers system runs clean power for years—worth every single penny.