How to Select a Backup System for Your Myers Pump

The shower sputtered, the pressure gauge dropped to zero, and silence took over the mechanical room. No humming motor, no water in the lines, and a family staring at a dry faucet. If you’ve lived on a private well long enough, you know that sudden, stomach-dropping moment. A properly sized submersible should deliver years of service, but storms, surges, dry spells, and simple wear can still shut a home down without PSAM myers pump warning. That’s why a well-thought-out backup system paired to your Myers well pump isn’t a luxury—it’s the difference between a minor inconvenience and a household emergency.

Two miles outside Lindsborg, Kansas, the Akintola family lives this reality. Daniel Akintola (39), a remote CAD designer, and his wife, Ruth (37), a middle school science teacher, raise their two kids—Noah (9) and Mira (6)—on five acres. Their 240-foot well had been running a 1 HP competitor pump at around 10 GPM. When a July lightning storm took their motor and control gear in one hit, the house went dry for 36 hours. Their previous pump—a budget Red Lion—lasted just four years before a motor short and a cracked housing ended its run. After that incident, Daniel called me at PSAM and moved to a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP submersible. Next on the list: a robust, layered backup system sized to their well and usage.

In this guide, I’ll show you how to design the right backup—whether you’re protecting your farm, your off-grid cabin, or your family’s daily routine. We’ll cover: choosing the right backup strategy for your Myers Predator Plus, power continuity with batteries and generators, control and automation that don’t overcomplicate things, pressure tank sizing, a standby pump with proper staging, freeze and surge protection, drop-in kits for rapid swap-outs, water storage as a last-line safeguard, and what to stock in your “dry day” toolkit. If you want your Myers system to deliver water during storms, outages, and equipment failures, this is how you do it—with practical, field-tested priorities and parts you can order today from PSAM.

Before we dive in, here’s why Myers is the right foundation for a reliable backup strategy: 80%+ hydraulic efficiency when operated around the Best Efficiency Point, 300 series stainless steel for all wetted metal components, Teflon-impregnated staging that shrugs off grit, Pentek XE high-thrust motors with thermal and lightning protection, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty. Backed by Pentair’s R&D and made-in-USA quality, a Myers pump is the one you want to build around. And at Plumbing Supply And More (PSAM), I hand-pick the accessories that keep you online when conditions turn against you.

Let’s get your “Plan B” squared away.

#1. Start with the Right Foundation – Myers Predator Plus Series Reliability, 300 Series Stainless Steel, and Pentek XE Motor

Backup planning only works if your primary system is sound. The foundation is a Myers Predator Plus Series submersible well pump with 300 series stainless steel construction and a Pentek XE motor. A pump that resists corrosion, rides out sandy water, and runs at high efficiency is the best starting point for any backup plan.

Technically speaking, stainless components in the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen resist acidity and mineral-heavy water that would pit or seize lesser materials. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating, engineered composite impellers resists abrasion from grit and sand—reducing wear on clearances and maintaining flow over time. The Pentek XE delivers high thrust and robust startup torque with thermal overload protection and lightning resilience. Typical operating specs: 1/2 to 2 HP, 230V, 2-wire or 3-wire configuration, shut-off heads from 250 to 490 feet, and GPM rating options from 7-8 GPM to 20+ GPM models.

Competitor reality check (detailed): Compared to Goulds Pumps using cast iron in certain stage components, stainless on a Myers is inherently more corrosion resistant in low-pH or high-iron water. Cast iron oxidizes; efficiency drops as surfaces roughen and clearances change. Red Lion, using thermoplastic housings, struggles under pressure cycling and thermal expansion—cracking is not rare after a few hot summers and cold winters. On motors, Pentek XE high-thrust units are built for sustained, continuous duty at BEP; efficiency translates to cooler operation and longer insulation life. Fewer replacements, fewer emergency calls, lower utility bills. Over ten years, this is the definition of “worth every single penny.”

For Daniel and Ruth Akintola, switching from that budget submersible to a Myers submersible well pump (1 HP, 10 GPM curve) immediately stabilized pressure, cut cycling, and took their grit issue off the table. Now their backup prep starts with a pump that’s built to outlast those Midwest storms.

Pro Tip: Match Best Efficiency Point to Your TDH

Use the pump curve to align your household flow—say, 8-12 GPM—with your Total Dynamic Head (TDH). A Myers at BEP runs cooler and draws less amperage, extending life and stabilizing your operating margin.

Must-Have Materials: Stainless Where It Counts

300 series stainless steel isn’t marketing fluff. In water with CO2, iron, or acidity, stainless preserves clearances and shaft integrity, helping the impeller stack maintain pressure for the long haul.

Motor Protection: Survival Features Built-In

The Pentek XE motor includes thermal overload protection and lightning tolerance. That matters when a July thunderstorm hits your service pole—exactly the scenario that shut down the Akintolas.

Key takeaway: Build your backup around a pump you can trust. A Myers Predator Plus gives you the reliability baseline to make every other backup layer actually effective.

#2. Choose Your Backup Strategy – Generator, Battery/Inverter, or Secondary Pump for Myers Deep Well Systems

Reliable water during an outage requires one of three routes: generator power, battery-inverter power, or a fully plumbed standby pump. Which one fits depends on outage length, budget, and well depth.

A generator is the simplest. A 1 HP AC electric pump typically draws 7-10 running amps at 230V (start surge double that). Sizing a generator at 2.5x the running wattage covers inrush. So a 1 HP submersible—roughly 1,600-2,000 running watts—pairs nicely with a 5,000W generator. Battery-inverter systems are silent and automatic, but higher cost for multi-hour operation. A standby multi-stage pump plumbed parallel with valves is the fastest mechanical swap—no wiring change, just flow redirection.

For the Akintolas, I recommended a 6,500W generator with a 240V output and a manual transfer switch, plus an interlocked breaker for safety. Their well is 240 feet deep, so maintaining 10 GPM at 50-60 PSI is non-negotiable during an outage. With a single pressure tank and generator backup, showers and laundry keep moving when the grid goes down.

Generator Sizing Done Right

For 3/4 HP, plan ~4,500W minimum; for 1 HP, ~5,000W; for 1.5 HP, ~7,500W. Account for starting surge and any simultaneous loads (furnace, fridge).

Battery Backup for Quiet Operation

Inverter rating needs a true sine wave, 240V split phase for single-phase motor pumps, and battery capacity for run time. Great for short outages and overnight pumping without noise.

Standby Pump: Plumbed and Ready

Add a second Myers submersible well pump with a separate check valve, parallel piping, and a color-coded valve plan. It’s a fast, wrench-only failover if a primary pump fails mechanically.

Key takeaway: Pick the strategy you’ll actually use under stress. Most households thrive with a properly sized generator plus a clear operating procedure.

#3. Power Continuity Essentials – 2-Wire vs 3-Wire Configuration, Control Box Logistics, and Surge Protection

Backup success hinges on knowing your configuration. A 2-wire well pump keeps controls internal to the motor, while a 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start components. That difference matters for backup power, troubleshooting, and spare parts.

Technically: A 2-wire arrangement reduces surface components—fewer parts to fail during a storm. It also simplifies generator integration since there’s no external capacitor to protect or replace. A 3-wire system, however, allows quick replacement of start components without pulling the pump—nice when you suspect a failed capacitor or relay. Either way, surge and lightning protection are mandatory: a panel-mounted surge protector, ground rods in spec, and a dedicated well circuit with correct amperage draw capacity.

For Daniel’s 1 HP Myers (2-wire, 230V), we installed a panel surge device and a wellhead discharge arrester. The lightning that killed his old pump won’t take out his Myers and backup power path as easily next time.

Know Your Controls

2-wire: Fewer points of failure topside, faster backup integration. 3-wire: External control box serviceable from the basement; keep a spare box on the shelf.

Surge & Lightning Protection

Whole-home suppressor at the main panel, plus a lightning protection arrester near the well feed. Protect sensitive start components and your Pentek XE motor.

Labeling and Testing

Label the pressure switch, breaker, and generator interlock. Practice a quarterly 10-minute run on backup power to verify direction and pressure.

Key takeaway: Clean wiring, good surge protection, and clear labeling prevent “no water” surprises when the storm hits.

#4. Pressure Tank and Drawdown – Sizing a Buffer for Grid Outages and Pump Cycling Control

Storage equals time. A properly sized pressure tank gives you gallons in reserve when power drops—a cushion for handwashing, a quick rinse, or flushing while you spin up the generator. It also prevents rapid cycling that shortens pump life.

A 20-gallon nominal tank holds only ~6 gallons of drawdown at 40/60 PSI. Jump to an 86-gallon nominal tank and you’ll get roughly 25 gallons of drawdown. That’s real breathing room. Match tank size to household peak demand and outage expectations; often, 44- to 86-gallon tanks are a sweet spot. Set the air precharge 2 PSI below cut-in; if your pressure switch is 40/60, precharge at 38 PSI—checked with power off and system drained.

For the Akintolas, we moved from a 20-gallon to a 62-gallon tank, giving almost 20 gallons of usable water before the pump must https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/submersible-well-pump-rustler-series-1-stage-1-2-hp-8-gpm.html run. That buys Daniel time to start his generator without rush.

Drawdown Math

Use manufacturer charts for your pressure tank model. At 40/60 PSI, plan on ~30% of nominal volume as usable drawdown.

Pressure Switch Synergy

A wider differential (e.g., 30/50 to 40/60) increases drawdown but raises pump head requirement. Match your pump’s TDH capabilities.

Anti-Short-Cycle Tactics

If you can’t upsize the tank, consider a cycle stop valve carefully matched to your pump’s curve. For Myers, I prefer right-sized tanking first.

Key takeaway: Think of your tank as your first, silent backup. Bigger drawdown means fewer starts, longer pump life, and time to power up your Plan B.

#5. Standby Pump Strategy – Matching Stages, HP, and GPM to Your Well’s TDH and Static Level

A standby pump isn’t a luxury in remote areas; it’s cheap insurance against a dead motor or seized staging. The key is specifying a second Myers deep well pump matched to your well’s depth, casing, and desired pressure so it can step in with minimal head-scratching.

Technically, you want a like-for-like curve or a curve that meets your target operating point (for residential, 8-12 GPM at 50-60 PSI at fixture). If your TDH is 220 feet and you need 60 PSI (approximately 138 feet of head), a 1 HP 10 GPM model with 11-13 stages often hits the sweet spot. Note discharge and 1-1/4" NPT plumbing compatibility, 230V supply, and wire gauge adequate for drop length.

For the Akintolas, a second Myers 1 HP, 10 GPM model sits on a shelf at PSAM—marked and reserved—because winter outages can take freight days. We keep a matching motor in stock and a wire splice kit, drop pipe fittings, and torque arrestors bagged and ready.

Pump Curve Matching

Check your pump curve against your TDH and target flow. Stay near BEP to protect the motor and maximize hydraulic efficiency.

Mechanical Spares

Stock an extra internal check valve, intake screen, and a couple of cable guards. If you’re pulling the well, replace wear items while you’re there.

Valve and Union Planning

Add unions above the pitless adapter and a color-coded valve plan. In an emergency, time saved equals water delivered.

Key takeaway: A standby Myers, properly matched and staged, cuts downtime from days to hours. It’s the most direct “hardware backup” there is.

#6. Power Source Backup – Generator vs Inverter-Battery for Submersible Well Pumps, Amperage Draw and Run-Time Planning

Good backups fail when power planning is sloppy. Submersible pumps have a short but heavy inrush current; your backup must handle that surge cleanly.

Generators: Look at continuous rating and 240V availability. For a 1 HP submersible with a running draw around 8 amps at 230V, budget 2,000 running watts and around 4,000–5,000W starting capacity. A 6,500W unit gives margin for lights and fridge. Inverter-battery systems require a 240V split-phase inverter with start surge 3x the running watts. Batteries should supply at least 20-30 minutes of runtime per expected water session—more if off-grid. Lithium batteries offer better depth-of-discharge and cycle life.

The Akintolas chose a 6,500W portable generator with an interlock kit. During last month’s test, their Myers hit pressure in 25 seconds from 40 PSI to 60 PSI and the generator didn’t flinch.

Load Management

Stagger loads: turn off HVAC blowers and electric water heaters before starting the pump. Add them back one at a time.

Fuel and Maintenance

Keep stabilized fuel rotated quarterly. Exercise the generator monthly under load to keep windings dry and carburetor clean.

Inverter Specifics

Use a true sine-wave inverter. Cheap square-wave outputs can overheat a single-phase motor and void warranties.

Key takeaway: Give your pump clean, sufficient power and it’ll give you water—every time.

#7. Controls and Automation – Pressure Switch Logic, Manual Bypass, and Field-Serviceable Threaded Assembly

During outages, simplicity wins. Smart controls sound great until a board locks up mid-storm. With a Myers well pump, straightforward pressure switch logic and manual bypass valves turn chaos into a 10-minute routine.

Stick with proven 40/60 or 30/50 pressure switch settings unless your plumbing demands otherwise. Add a clear, laminated SOP: breaker off, generator on, interlock engaged, pressure verified, breaker on, faucets tested. If you run a dual-pump setup, include labeled valves for primary/standby selection. Myers’ field serviceable threaded assembly is a gift when you need to service without a full replacement—especially with spare O-rings, seals, and a motor coupling on hand.

When the Akintolas tested their manual bypass last week, Noah timed them: 9 minutes, start to water at kitchen sink. That’s what I want to hear.

Keep Controls Essential

A mechanical pressure switch rarely fails at once. Electronic controllers can be excellent but ensure bypass options exist.

Threaded Assembly Advantage

Myers’ threaded assembly lets qualified contractors service stages or seals on-site—cheaper and quicker than dealer-only systems.

Label Everything

Tags on valves, breaker, transfer switch, and pressure settings. In an emergency, clear labeling prevents “mystery moments.”

Key takeaway: Smart, simple control choices and serviceable design keep your Myers system dependable when conditions aren’t.

#8. Surge, Freeze, and Grit Defense – Nitrile Bearings, Intake Screen, and Seasonal Protection that Extend Pump Life

Backup planning isn’t just power. Protecting your pump from environmental stressors prevents failures that no generator can fix.

Start with electrical surge protection at the main panel and the well circuit. Mechanically, a torque arrestor, cable guard, and a properly hung safety rope protect wires during startup and ensure centered placement in the casing. Water quality matters: if sand persists, a fine intake screen and a properly placed check valve help keep the stack clean. In northern climates, insulate the well cap, protect the pitless adapter from freeze, and heat trace above-grade piping if exposed. Myers’ composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging and nitrile rubber bearings handle grit better than metals alone—but don’t ask any submersible to swallow a sand dune every day.

The Akintolas installed a new well cap, replaced their tired rope, and added fresh cable guards on the drop. Simple steps. Big dividends.

Electrical Armor

Main-panel surge protection, proper grounding, and a dedicated breaker. Lightning can ride the neutral; don’t skimp on grounding.

Mechanical Centering

Torque arrestor and cable management prevent abrasion and insulation damage, especially on deep wells with long drops.

Seasonal Moves

In freeze zones, insulate, slope lines to drain, and verify the pitless seals cleanly. Frozen fittings cause cracked housings in seconds.

Key takeaway: Protect the pump from the environment, and the environment won’t end your weekend.

#9. Competitor Reality Check – Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion on Materials, Efficiency, Maintenance, and Lifespan

Let’s talk brass tacks. Materials, motor efficiency, and maintainability determine how often you face a dry faucet.

Technical analysis: Myers Predator Plus uses 300 series stainless steel for wetted metals and engineered composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging, driving strong abrasion resistance and stable clearances. The Pentek XE motor delivers high thrust with 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, meaning cooler runs and lower amperage for a given head/flow point. By contrast, certain Goulds configurations incorporate cast iron components susceptible to corrosion in low-pH water—once rust appears in the stages, efficiency drops, and bearings stress. Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings struggle with repeated pressure cycling and thermal swings; I’ve seen stress cracks appear at the discharge after seasonal changes.

Real-world differences: Myers’ field serviceable approach with a threaded assembly invites on-site repairs by any qualified contractor—no proprietary dealer lock-in. Maintenance is straightforward: check pressure, check drawdown, inspect electrical, and keep surge protection fresh. Service life? A properly installed Myers often sees 8–15 years, with 20+ possible under ideal care. Thermoplastic budget pumps frequently bow out in 3–5 years, typically during an outage or high-demand weekend.

Bottom line: When your water depends on it, the Myers build, efficiency, and on-site serviceability deliver a 10-year cost of ownership that’s lower and far less stressful. That’s worth every single penny.

#10. Water Storage as the Last Line – Cisterns, Tank Tees, and Booster Pump Integration for Extended Outages

When outages stretch beyond an afternoon—or your well recovery is slow during drought—onsite storage closes the gap. A 200–500-gallon poly tank with a tank tee and a small booster pump can carry you for days. Plumb the cistern downstream of your well check valve, include unions, and install an isolation valve so the house can run from the cistern during a grid-down event.

Use a floating suction to pull cleaner water. The booster pump should be sized for 8–12 GPM at 50 PSI—most homes live well in that band. Wire it for easy generator or inverter power. Add a float switch to prevent dry runs. With cistern storage, even if your primary well pump is offline, you still get showers, cooking, and laundry—at least until the cistern runs low.

For the Akintolas, we sketched a 300-gallon storage with a compact booster. It’s phase two after the generator. Their well produces steadily, so periodic top-offs keep them comfortable through multi-day outages.

Cistern Sizing and Placement

Size for 2–3 days of average use: typical homes plan on 60–80 gallons per person per day including laundry.

Booster Pump Selection

Choose an energy efficient unit with a stainless head, 115V or 230V, and a small pressure tank to prevent rapid cycling.

Sanitation and Maintenance

NSF/ANSI-certified tanks, opaque to limit algae. Annual cleaning prevents biofilm and odor.

Key takeaway: A cistern transforms brief outages into non-events and long outages into manageable inconveniences.

#11. Rapid-Swap Hardware – Drop Pipe, Pitless Adapter, Wire Splice Kits, and Quick-Connect Planning

Every dry-well story I hear has a common thread: hardware delays. If you want water back fast, stock the right parts and simplify the mechanicals now.

Keep a coil of drop pipe (HDPE or PVC schedule appropriate to depth), stainless clamps, and a backup pitless adapter seal. Have a wire splice kit sized to your cable gauge, heat-shrinkable and gel-filled, ready in a labeled bag. Store an extra well cap gasket and a few fittings that match your 1-1/4" NPT discharge. Color-coded zip ties for cable marking help during a dim, late-night pull.

The Akintolas have a tote labeled “Well Emergency” with their torque arrestor, clamps, tape, heat-shrink splices, O-ring set, and printed SOP. If their Myers ever needs pulling, nothing sends them running to town mid-job.

Pipe Choices

Deep wells do well with 160–200 PSI HDPE drop. PVC schedule 80 for shallower drops; follow local code.

Electrical Splices

Use submersible-rated splices only. Heat and seal correctly; a bad splice ends pumps early.

Pitless Prep

Inspect the pitless adapter annually. Lubricate O-rings with potable-safe lube and verify secure engagement.

Key takeaway: The “kit you hope you never need” pays back the first time you do need it.

#12. Warranty, Support, and Documentation – 3-Year Warranty, UL/CSA Listings, and PSAM Resources That Keep You Online

A backup plan is only as strong as the support behind it. Myers brings an industry-leading 3-year warranty, UL listed and CSA certified builds, and PSAM’s deep bench of spec sheets, pump curve charts, install manuals, and phone support when you need it most.

The 3-year warranty dwarfs the 12–18 month coverage many brands offer. With Made in USA quality and Pentair’s engineering backing, replacement headaches are rare. At PSAM, we stock replacement motors, control boxes, pressure switch options, and the accessories you’ll wish you had on hand at 8pm on a Sunday. I also publish troubleshooting guides and seasonal checklists. If you need curves for a Myers deep well water pump at 10 GPM versus 20 GPM configurations, we’ve got PDFs ready.

When Daniel called during their storm event, we had his new pump, splice kit, and fittings on a same-day ticket. That’s how this should work.

Documentation You’ll Use

Keep your pump’s model number, HP, stages, depth, water level, and wire gauge in a folder. Tape a copy near the pressure tank.

Warranty Confidence

3-year warranty coverage on manufacturing defects and performance issues—less downtime, lower risk.

PSAM Advantage

Same-day shipping on in-stock, curated parts and “Rick’s Picks” kits that save you trips and time.

Key takeaway: Strong warranty and real support turn equipment into a trustworthy system.

#13. Myers vs Grundfos and Franklin on Backup Practicality – Configuration, Control Complexity, and Service Path

A reliable backup plan thrives on simplicity and serviceability. Here’s where Myers earns its keep versus two strong competitors.

Technical analysis: Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire options across common HP ranges, keeping installations flexible. Many Grundfos configurations lean on more complex controls and favor 3-wire with proprietary elements, adding upfront cost and replacement complexity. Franklin Electric submersibles often interface best with proprietary control boxes and dealer networks, which can delay service in rural settings. Meanwhile, Myers pairs robust Pentek XE motors—high thrust, smart thermal protection—with straightforward control gear that any qualified contractor can service.

Application differences: Field service matters under pressure. A field serviceable Myers threaded assembly allows on-site staging and seal work. With Grundfos or Franklin, you’re more likely to chase dealer parts or replace assemblies rather than rebuild in the field—fine in town, but tough miles out. Add Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency around BEP, and your generator sizing and energy bills are lighter.

Conclusion: When outages hit and the calendar says Sunday, you want stainless durability, simple controls, and field-ready serviceability. Myers hits that trifecta with PSAM behind it—worth every single penny.

#14. Sizing and Spec Checklist – Horsepower, Stages, GPM Rating, TDH, and Pressure Tank Tuning for Backup Confidence

Before buying anything, confirm these numbers. It saves hours and eliminates guesswork during outages.

Well depth and static water level Pump depth and drop pipe details Household GPM target (8–12 GPM typical) TDH (vertical lift + friction losses + pressure requirement; 60 PSI ≈ 138 feet of head) Pump horsepower and stages that hit BEP near your target flow/head Voltage (115V or 230V; most submersibles 230V), and breaker size Configuration: 2-wire or 3-wire Tank drawdown target and pressure switch settings Generator or inverter power capacity, surge coverage, fuel plan Spare parts list: wire splice kit, check valve, O-rings, clamps, pitless adapter seal, well cap gasket

When the Akintolas updated their file, they added photos of their pressure tank setup, valve labels, and SOP. In a pinch, photos are faster than memory.

Spec Discipline

Specs aren’t paperwork—they’re the blueprint for water when time is tight.

Tune for BEP

Running near BEP extends motor life and reduces heat. Your Myers is engineered to reward good sizing.

Backup Alignment

Ensure your generator matches voltage, surge, and plug type. Test quarterly.

Key takeaway: A 10-minute spec review now removes 2 hours of confusion later.

#15. Stock the “Dry Day” Bin – The PSAM Myers Essentials: Splice Kits, Pressure Switch, Check Valve, and Tank Tee

Finish strong with a bin that lives next to your pressure tank. My standard checklist:

Submersible-rated wire splice kit (heat shrink, gel-filled) Extra pressure switch (40/60) and 1/4" close nipple Brass or stainless check valve rated for submersible duty 2–4 stainless hose clamps, spare O-rings, and sealant tape Tank tee repair kit: pressure gauge, relief valve, drain cock Pitless O-ring and well cap gasket Zip ties, electrical tape, color labels, laminated SOP If you’re truly remote: a matched Myers well pump motor or complete backup pump

The Akintolas have their bin assembled and a copy of my emergency SOP in a clear sleeve. Noah’s nickname for it: “Water Insurance.”

Minimalism with Purpose

Keep it lean but decisive. Every item should prevent a run to town.

Quality Components

Stainless and brass where it matters. Resist the temptation to save $5 on a part that can shut down water.

Review Twice a Year

Replace worn items and re-check your labels and SOP.

Key takeaway: A small bin ends big headaches. It’s the fastest ROI in well ownership.

FAQ: Myers Backup Systems and Best Practices

Q1: How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand? A: Start with your TDH: vertical lift from water level to pressure tank, plus friction loss in piping, plus pressure requirement at the house (convert PSI to feet—60 PSI ≈ 138 feet). Match your target flow—typically 8–12 GPM for a 3–4 bedroom home—to a pump curve that delivers that flow at your TDH near the BEP. For wells around 200–300 feet with 8–10 GPM needs, a 1 HP or 1.5 HP Myers submersible well pump is common. If you irrigate or run livestock waterers, bump flow and possibly HP. I recommend sending PSAM your depth, static level, and pipe run—my team will align a Myers deep well pump with the right stages and GPM rating so the Pentek XE motor runs cool and efficient.

Q2: What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure? A: Most homes do well at 8–12 GPM. Multi-fixture or large families might step to 12–15 GPM for comfort. Multi-stage pump designs stack impellers to build pressure (head), letting a 10 GPM pump reach 50–70 PSI even at depth. The more stages, the higher the head capability for a given flow. Choose a Myers Predator Plus model whose curve places your target GPM at your required head near BEP. That’s how you get steady pressure, longer life, and reduced amperage draw.

Q3: How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors? A: Efficiency stems from tight stage tolerances, engineered composite impellers, and Teflon-impregnated staging that keeps clearances consistent even with minor grit exposure. Stainless internals maintain smooth flow paths over years. Pair that with the Pentek XE high-thrust single-phase motor and you’ll see lower amperage at a given head/flow point than typical budget pumps. Operating near BEP is essential—size correctly, and you’ll trim 10–20% off energy use while keeping water pressure strong.

Q4: Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps? A: 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion in acidic or mineralized water, holds surface finish, and keeps stage geometry intact. Cast iron oxidizes; rust expands, clearances increase, and efficiency drops. Over time, you’ll lose pressure, draw more current, and stress bearings. Stainless construction in the Myers well pump line protects shafts, bowls, and screens—translating to longer service life and consistent performance.

Q5: How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage? A: Teflon-impregnated staging reduces friction and heat, so minor grit doesn’t score and gall the impeller edges like bare plastics or metal might. The self-lubricating impellers maintain clearances and reduce wear on nitrile rubber bearings, keeping output steady as the pump ages. In sandy aquifers, this is the difference between replacing a pump in year four and still pumping at year ten.

Q6: What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors? A: The Pentek XE motor is engineered for high thrust and sustained BEP operation, with better winding insulation and thermal overload protection. That yields cooler running temps and stronger torque at startup. When paired with a correctly staged Myers pump, you’re operating in a sweet spot: minimal slip, efficient power conversion, and extended winding life—exactly what you want during generator or inverter operation.

Q7: Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor? A: Skilled DIYers can install with care, but many jurisdictions require licensed installers. Safety matters: 230V wiring, correct wire splice kit use, proper pitless adapter engagement, torque arrestor placement, and pressure tank setup must be correct. If you go DIY, let PSAM size your pump and supply a complete accessory kit—drop pipe, clamps, check valve, tank tee, and instructions. Otherwise, hire a pro, and you’ll get a system tuned for BEP with warranty intact.

Q8: What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations? A: 2-wire pumps have internal start components—simplifying installation and reducing topside parts. 3-wire pumps use an external control box, making capacitor/relay replacement possible without pulling the pump. For backup planning, 2-wire often integrates faster with generators. For field servicing, 3-wire can be a lifesaver if a start capacitor fails. Myers offers both; we’ll match your preference and well specs.

Q9: How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance? A: In typical residential duty, expect 8–15 years. With ideal water chemistry, correct sizing near BEP, solid surge protection, and seasonal checks, I’ve seen Myers deep well systems run 20+ years. Fast killers include undersized tanks (short cycling), poor surge protection, and gritty water without appropriate staging protection.

Q10: What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed? A: Quarterly: check pressure tank precharge (power off), inspect pressure switch contacts, verify no short cycling. Annually: test breaker and surge devices, inspect well cap and vent, check for leaks at the tank tee, and verify generator/inverter operation under load. Every 3–5 years: sample water, especially iron and pH. Anytime you pull the pump: replace cable guards, the torque arrestor, and inspect the internal check valve.

Q11: How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover? A: Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many brands sitting at 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. Pair that with UL listed, CSA certified products and Made in USA quality, and you get real peace of mind. If you bought from PSAM, we’ll help diagnose issues quickly and supply replacements when warranted—reducing downtime and protecting your investment.

Q12: What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands? A: A budget thermoplastic pump might cost less upfront but often lasts 3–5 years. Factor two replacements, a few service calls, higher energy use from poorer efficiency, and a 1-year warranty—your “cheap” pump becomes expensive. A Myers Predator Plus—with 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, stainless construction, and a Pentek XE motor—typically delivers a decade-plus with fewer calls and lower kilowatt-hours. On farms and family homes alike, Myers wins on dollars and sanity.

Conclusion: Building a backup system for your Myers pump isn’t complicated—it’s a series of smart, proven choices. Start with a Myers Predator Plus foundation, size your pump to run near BEP, add a right-sized pressure tank, choose a generator or inverter that actually handles start surge, protect against surges and freeze, and keep a compact parts bin within arm’s reach. Whether you install a full standby pump, a cistern with booster, or both, the right layers turn outages into non-events. At PSAM, I stock what I recommend and ship it fast, because dry faucets can’t wait. If you want help matching your well to the right Myers well pump, backup power, and parts kit, send us your specs—depth, static level, GPM goals, and voltage—and I’ll give you a clear, field-tested plan that keeps your home online.